Yep. Exactly as it sounds. I even had tourists and locals laughing at me in the street as I tried on a few pairs. But take note, there is a stand in the street selling wool gloves and toques.
I'm prepping for the Tajumulco climb that Itay and I hope to undertake tomorrow. The plan is to get up early, meet at the central park, bus it to Tajumulco, and I guess Itay has the rest of the plans after that. Something about having secured a place for us to leave our packs, meeting a guide, and somehow getting up this volcano.
Based on what I've heard and my experience with Mount Kinabalu, I know I'll be so cold at the summit that I will need thick woolen gloves. Rony, our guide last year, gave me his own gloves to wear because my hands were so painfully cold. And this time I'll be higher (though not by much). I'm also prepared with many, many layers of clothing, and a huge selection of food. I just need to find myself a hiking stick, and I'm set.
Nothing else new from here. I've had a lazy day spent mainly with my nose in a book. Yesterday was a little more interesting. In the afternoon, I walked about 3km to the main bus terminal to find some departure information. On my way through the market, I found a boy selling dyed chicks, and shortly thereafter a random man started yelling with excitement at the sight of such a white girl. Also next to the market/bus station is the zoological park. Entrance is free, so I thought I would check out which caged animals were on display to be gawked at. There were some exotic things like jaguars, monkeys, and a toucan, but there was also a surprising selection of domestic and typical animals. Sheep, pigeons, rabbits, etc. I could hardly stop laughing when I reached the pigeon cage.
I'm off now to find some semblance of order before my early-morning departure. The plan after Tajumulco is to head towards Lago de Atitlan. There are many towns surrounding this lake, including a party town, a hippie town, and a diving town. I think I might have to try them all out, so who knows how long I will be spending there. All the best, and I'll be in touch when I get to the lake!
Friday, July 10, 2009
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Belly full of Rambutan
I found them, I found them! When I decided to make Central America my destination this summer rather than Indonesia, I was a little disappointed I wouldn't be able to feast on rambutan for four months. Clearly, I haven't had the same opportunity here as I would have in Indonesia, but I've discovered that there are rambutan plantations near here! (Rambutan is my favourite fruit as of last summer, by the way. It's a bit like a lychee.) It's still hard to find them, but after a week of noticing half a crushed rambutan peel here and half of one there, I've finally tracked some down. Of course, in a huge market there are probably only two rambutan sellers. It's sad, but I'm satisfied.
This morning was spent hiking up to Los Vahos with Itay. It's basically an hour's walk straight uphill, out of town from the central park to reach these hot springs. In this case, there are no pools of water to bathe in, but extremely hot and steamy saunas to sit in. One room was terribly hot, and the other not so bad. I could survive in the hot room for almost a minute before needing some cool air, and maybe two minutes in the cooler room. I don't think I have ever sweat so profusely and instantly in my life before.
Before taking off for Los Vahos this morning, I discovered a moderately disturbing thing. Someone stole my bikini. Please tell me, who would steal another woman's bikini? I had laid my cute and colourful Walmart bikini out in the dormroom to dry after visiting Las Fuentes Georginas the other day. Yesterday morning I spread it out on top of my bedcovers, and then didn't notice its absence until I wanted to pack it in my bag today. A bikini is such a person item to steal that I just can't get over it. That's like stealing another girl's panties to wear. Ugh! Fortunately, I am not swimsuitless due to this event. Knowing I would be spending most of my time in the water, I brought two bikinis and a one-piece with me on this trip, but not my favourite suit is gone. Alas! Maybe I'll start paying the extra $1-2 per night to have a single room so it will be less easy for people to swipe my stuff...
Plans for Tajumulco are being formulated. Itay plans a one-day climb because he's pressed for time, so I might join him on that to prevent freezing overnight in a tent at 4000m on the two-day climb. This will also allow for me to climb without carrying a heavy pack of tent parts, food, and other supplies. I will wind up with a more intense day of climbing, but climb itself is technically easy, it just becomes difficult when altitude and a 20-lb pack are added. We'll see how this goes.
Off I go now to pick up my laundry. Take care!
This morning was spent hiking up to Los Vahos with Itay. It's basically an hour's walk straight uphill, out of town from the central park to reach these hot springs. In this case, there are no pools of water to bathe in, but extremely hot and steamy saunas to sit in. One room was terribly hot, and the other not so bad. I could survive in the hot room for almost a minute before needing some cool air, and maybe two minutes in the cooler room. I don't think I have ever sweat so profusely and instantly in my life before.
Before taking off for Los Vahos this morning, I discovered a moderately disturbing thing. Someone stole my bikini. Please tell me, who would steal another woman's bikini? I had laid my cute and colourful Walmart bikini out in the dormroom to dry after visiting Las Fuentes Georginas the other day. Yesterday morning I spread it out on top of my bedcovers, and then didn't notice its absence until I wanted to pack it in my bag today. A bikini is such a person item to steal that I just can't get over it. That's like stealing another girl's panties to wear. Ugh! Fortunately, I am not swimsuitless due to this event. Knowing I would be spending most of my time in the water, I brought two bikinis and a one-piece with me on this trip, but not my favourite suit is gone. Alas! Maybe I'll start paying the extra $1-2 per night to have a single room so it will be less easy for people to swipe my stuff...
Plans for Tajumulco are being formulated. Itay plans a one-day climb because he's pressed for time, so I might join him on that to prevent freezing overnight in a tent at 4000m on the two-day climb. This will also allow for me to climb without carrying a heavy pack of tent parts, food, and other supplies. I will wind up with a more intense day of climbing, but climb itself is technically easy, it just becomes difficult when altitude and a 20-lb pack are added. We'll see how this goes.
Off I go now to pick up my laundry. Take care!
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
Waiting to Climb Tajumulco
It's a good thing I'm not on a schedule. I'm still here in Xela, mainly wasting my time lounging in cafes and reading (currently working on The Time Traveler's Wife, it's amazing). I've looked into Tajumulco Volcano a good deal, and I desperately want to do the climb. I'll need to get some warmer gear, but right now I just have to wait because no one else in the city wants to climb it. How on earth is it possible that I can be the only person in a city the size of St. John's that's packed with tourists who wants to climb this volcano? [Oh, I know. Everyone here studies Spanish Monday to Friday.] I visited every tour company I could find in town today and told them I'd love to go tomorrow. I have a feeling I might get to go on Saturday. Just two more days of waiting.
I've been enjoying myself here, but without paying to go stare at indigenous populations I've pretty much run out of affordable tour options. Yesterday was spent visiting the hot springs, Fuentes Georginas. I expected a warm pool of water; not something hot enough to boil a lobster. The setting was very relaxing, and high in the mountains so the air outside the springs was cool, but the water was extremely difficult to stay in. An awesome experience altogether.
The rest of my time since I arrived has been spent eating. There are all kinds of delicious things you can find from street vendors for $0.50-$1.00. I have no idea what any of them are called, but my current favourite is a type of cold salad served on a crispy tortilla. That one runs you about 50 cents.
Someone else is waiting for the free internet right now, so I must be on my way. All the best!
I've been enjoying myself here, but without paying to go stare at indigenous populations I've pretty much run out of affordable tour options. Yesterday was spent visiting the hot springs, Fuentes Georginas. I expected a warm pool of water; not something hot enough to boil a lobster. The setting was very relaxing, and high in the mountains so the air outside the springs was cool, but the water was extremely difficult to stay in. An awesome experience altogether.
The rest of my time since I arrived has been spent eating. There are all kinds of delicious things you can find from street vendors for $0.50-$1.00. I have no idea what any of them are called, but my current favourite is a type of cold salad served on a crispy tortilla. That one runs you about 50 cents.
Someone else is waiting for the free internet right now, so I must be on my way. All the best!
Monday, July 6, 2009
Xela-Mela
So, after exploring the market of Chichicastenango and exploring the surrounding area, Itay and I made our way to Quetzaltenango (aka Xela) this morning. He's a good guy, but I'm feeling fairly quickly dropped at the moment. We arrived in Xela, made our way to the Parque Central together, sat for a quick snack, and then he just kind of said "Okay, bye then!" once we walked down the street and he got to the Spanish school he wanted to check out. As we both intend to be in the same city for at least a couple of days, I figured we might plan to meet up again... Oh well! My fault for not chiming in.
I'm now staying at a nice hostel a few blocks from the city centre. I'm paying slightly more than I'd like to ($5 is my current ideal maximum and this is almost $7), but it happens to have free internet and breakfast is included. Not such a bad deal. Internet here is about as cheap as it comes in Guatemala, but since it turns out I have free access at the hostel, I'm now a bit lost as to what to do for the afternoon. I was going to go take my time on the net, wander town, see about volunteer options, and try to figure out what I want to do in the surrounding area in the next few days.
One of the main attractions of Xela for most people is Spanish lessons. People come here, take a week of private lessons with a Spanish teacher, and beef up their knowledge of Spanish. I, however, can't see the point of spending money on Spanish school considering my background in languages. I spent three years studying Spanish (albeit spread out and long ago), so I have a good grammatical base (French helps with that too). All I need is more volcabulary, and chatting with locals and sticking my nose in my dictionary is taking care of that. This leaves me feeling slightly left out in Xela because nearly all the travellers here are doing something I'm not. I definitely need to arrange some activities today.
From here, I expect I'll head to Lago de Atitlan. I'm [naturally] not fully decided on this yet, but it seems like a good plan. I also don't know how long I'll stay here depending on what I want to do. The highest point in Central America is right here next to me. It's Tajumulco Volcano, 4220 metres high according to my guidebook, and while I'd love to climb it, I don't know if I really can. It's steep, and I'm fairly terrified of the altitude sickness that I began to feel on my way up Mount Kinabalu last year. I'll have to talk to some more people and give it good consideration.
I'm out now. I hope you're all well (it wouldn't hurt to tell me)! Take care!
I'm now staying at a nice hostel a few blocks from the city centre. I'm paying slightly more than I'd like to ($5 is my current ideal maximum and this is almost $7), but it happens to have free internet and breakfast is included. Not such a bad deal. Internet here is about as cheap as it comes in Guatemala, but since it turns out I have free access at the hostel, I'm now a bit lost as to what to do for the afternoon. I was going to go take my time on the net, wander town, see about volunteer options, and try to figure out what I want to do in the surrounding area in the next few days.
One of the main attractions of Xela for most people is Spanish lessons. People come here, take a week of private lessons with a Spanish teacher, and beef up their knowledge of Spanish. I, however, can't see the point of spending money on Spanish school considering my background in languages. I spent three years studying Spanish (albeit spread out and long ago), so I have a good grammatical base (French helps with that too). All I need is more volcabulary, and chatting with locals and sticking my nose in my dictionary is taking care of that. This leaves me feeling slightly left out in Xela because nearly all the travellers here are doing something I'm not. I definitely need to arrange some activities today.
From here, I expect I'll head to Lago de Atitlan. I'm [naturally] not fully decided on this yet, but it seems like a good plan. I also don't know how long I'll stay here depending on what I want to do. The highest point in Central America is right here next to me. It's Tajumulco Volcano, 4220 metres high according to my guidebook, and while I'd love to climb it, I don't know if I really can. It's steep, and I'm fairly terrified of the altitude sickness that I began to feel on my way up Mount Kinabalu last year. I'll have to talk to some more people and give it good consideration.
I'm out now. I hope you're all well (it wouldn't hurt to tell me)! Take care!
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Chicken Buses and Clingy Cats
Just a quick note, I think. This morning I left Antigua and made for Chichicastenango. Travel here was by ¨chicken bus¨. These are old school buses, retired from the United States, that have been given a new paint job and souped up with a bigger engine. They hardly stop for passengers to mount or dismount, and they certainly don't stop for any other traffic. You end up packed in like sardines, and on a good day someone probably will have brought some chickens on board with them (not today though).
Yesterday, I successfully climbed Pacaya Volcano. I was hoping to see some lava up close because that's what they advertise, but the volcano had a small eruption a few days before, so we weren't allowed too near the lava. All the same, it was hot, if you poked certain rocks with your hiking stick it might catch fire, and it was unbelieveably amazing. I guess I'll just have to try another volcano in the future to get closer to some real lava.
This morning, I made my way to Chichi for the market. Market days are Thursdays and Sundays, and people come here from all over to buy and sell. It was very cool; almost overwhelming because you just get lost in a maze of streets and stalls and everything looks the same. I'm not alone though. First thing this morning, Itay got onto the same bus as me and decided to come along to Chichi instead of going to Xela today. Itay and I met on the ride from San Pedro Sula to Copan Ruinas, and now everyone from that bus keeps running into one another. Welcome to solo travelling! (It really isn't so solo at all.)
Now, I've explored the market, people are starting to pack up their stalls to trek back home (that starts at about 4:00 pm), I've climbed up to an old Mayan ritual site, and here I am on the internet. There's a small cat roaming around in here, and it quickly made itself comfortable on my lap. Shame it kneads so much when it purrs.
Unlike most tourists, I'll be spending tonight here in Chichi. A lot of people come in just for the day, see the market, and take off again. I want to see what the town is like after everyone leaves. Then I'm headed to Quetzaltenango (Xela); probably late tomorrow morning. I haven't fully decided yet, but why should I decide? Travel here is easy, people don't try to rip you off much, and right now spending time with Itay (he's a guy from Israel, by the way) is quite nice. Off I go!
Yesterday, I successfully climbed Pacaya Volcano. I was hoping to see some lava up close because that's what they advertise, but the volcano had a small eruption a few days before, so we weren't allowed too near the lava. All the same, it was hot, if you poked certain rocks with your hiking stick it might catch fire, and it was unbelieveably amazing. I guess I'll just have to try another volcano in the future to get closer to some real lava.
This morning, I made my way to Chichi for the market. Market days are Thursdays and Sundays, and people come here from all over to buy and sell. It was very cool; almost overwhelming because you just get lost in a maze of streets and stalls and everything looks the same. I'm not alone though. First thing this morning, Itay got onto the same bus as me and decided to come along to Chichi instead of going to Xela today. Itay and I met on the ride from San Pedro Sula to Copan Ruinas, and now everyone from that bus keeps running into one another. Welcome to solo travelling! (It really isn't so solo at all.)
Now, I've explored the market, people are starting to pack up their stalls to trek back home (that starts at about 4:00 pm), I've climbed up to an old Mayan ritual site, and here I am on the internet. There's a small cat roaming around in here, and it quickly made itself comfortable on my lap. Shame it kneads so much when it purrs.
Unlike most tourists, I'll be spending tonight here in Chichi. A lot of people come in just for the day, see the market, and take off again. I want to see what the town is like after everyone leaves. Then I'm headed to Quetzaltenango (Xela); probably late tomorrow morning. I haven't fully decided yet, but why should I decide? Travel here is easy, people don't try to rip you off much, and right now spending time with Itay (he's a guy from Israel, by the way) is quite nice. Off I go!
Friday, July 3, 2009
¡Hola Antigua!
And I'm here. Safe in a country of minor swine flu problems, but no political turmoil. It turns out that passing the morning was easily done. I'm sure I went to sleep around 11:00 pm or something, but I didn't get up this morning until 10:00 am. I am now very well rested.
I got up this morning, packed up, and checked out of my room. Then I found myself some breakfast/the most amazing vegetable sandwich I have ever eaten. Maybe it just seemed so good because produce on Utila sucks and I've been lacking nutrients. Anyway, I still can't imagine anything nicer.
I went back to the hotel to await my bus. Naturally, I was expecting a 14-passenger van because that's what all the companies use for shuttle trips to Angitua. However, a sedan turned up with two other passengers in it. It was a very comfortable ride to Antigua, and crossing the border was a breeze. The stamp on my passport says it's good for 90 days, which makes me think I don't need to worry about renewal. However, I'll look further into that if it comes to when my Honduran visa would have expired and I'm still in Central America.
At this stage, I'm definitely not going to reenter Honduras (unless, of course, some miracle happens). But as long as I'm in Guatemala, I'm definitely going to check out some sights nearby. I'm still considering returning early, but I don't think it needs to be a full two months early... it could be a month and a half or something. Anyway, it sounds like I have more chance of having my belongings nicked at home than here in Guatemala.
Off I go now to chat with my dad, find some dinner, and figure out if I can get to Pacaya Volcano tomorrow. Tonnes of fun here in an untense country!
I got up this morning, packed up, and checked out of my room. Then I found myself some breakfast/the most amazing vegetable sandwich I have ever eaten. Maybe it just seemed so good because produce on Utila sucks and I've been lacking nutrients. Anyway, I still can't imagine anything nicer.
I went back to the hotel to await my bus. Naturally, I was expecting a 14-passenger van because that's what all the companies use for shuttle trips to Angitua. However, a sedan turned up with two other passengers in it. It was a very comfortable ride to Antigua, and crossing the border was a breeze. The stamp on my passport says it's good for 90 days, which makes me think I don't need to worry about renewal. However, I'll look further into that if it comes to when my Honduran visa would have expired and I'm still in Central America.
At this stage, I'm definitely not going to reenter Honduras (unless, of course, some miracle happens). But as long as I'm in Guatemala, I'm definitely going to check out some sights nearby. I'm still considering returning early, but I don't think it needs to be a full two months early... it could be a month and a half or something. Anyway, it sounds like I have more chance of having my belongings nicked at home than here in Guatemala.
Off I go now to chat with my dad, find some dinner, and figure out if I can get to Pacaya Volcano tomorrow. Tonnes of fun here in an untense country!
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Slow and Steady Wins the Race (or so I hope)
Well, today has been good, though I won´t be leaving Copan Ruinas quite as soon as I had hoped. For some mysterious reason, NONE of the buses that leave Copan at 6:00 am are running tomorrow morning. So I´ll have to wait until noon to leave, and won´t arrive in Antigua until 6:00 pm (if everything goes smoothly). All I can do is cross my fingers and enjoy the ride. The only way I can cross the border earlier is by doing it alone on local buses rather than with a tour company. By myself I would be, well, alone, it would definitely take longer, and would probably cost the same; so there´s really no point.
I´m now bored out of my mind, it´s been pouring rain for a couple of hours (I wish I could deliver some of it to Utila), the television stations available here suck, and I have no idea what I´m going to do until noon tomorrow. I like journeys--I don´t mind being on a bus for six hours or more--but I don´t like to sit around waiting with nothing to do. Alas, I guess I´ll live.
While watching extremely boring television, I´m pretty sure I watched national news on every station that broadcasts it. Naturally, they all told me just about the same thing. One thing I learned just before giving up on the TV was that there will be a ¨March for Peace and Democracy¨ here in Copan Ruinas on Saturday morning. This is the same as all the other demonstrations that have been happening across the country. So, I´m quite happy that I should be crossing the border before I get stuck behind any more demonstrations while trying to travel.
Nothing else to report from here, for obvious reasons. I saw a small chicken flee the streets from the rain earlier. It ran into a clothing store for cover. I wonder how long it was allowed to stay in there for...?
I´m now bored out of my mind, it´s been pouring rain for a couple of hours (I wish I could deliver some of it to Utila), the television stations available here suck, and I have no idea what I´m going to do until noon tomorrow. I like journeys--I don´t mind being on a bus for six hours or more--but I don´t like to sit around waiting with nothing to do. Alas, I guess I´ll live.
While watching extremely boring television, I´m pretty sure I watched national news on every station that broadcasts it. Naturally, they all told me just about the same thing. One thing I learned just before giving up on the TV was that there will be a ¨March for Peace and Democracy¨ here in Copan Ruinas on Saturday morning. This is the same as all the other demonstrations that have been happening across the country. So, I´m quite happy that I should be crossing the border before I get stuck behind any more demonstrations while trying to travel.
Nothing else to report from here, for obvious reasons. I saw a small chicken flee the streets from the rain earlier. It ran into a clothing store for cover. I wonder how long it was allowed to stay in there for...?
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